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New Build Deep Dive — Snagging

New Build Snagging: What It Is and How to Do It Properly

Snagging is the process of identifying defects and unfinished work in a new build property and getting the developer to fix them. Every new build has some level of defects — from minor cosmetic issues like paint chips to more significant problems like doors that don't close, leaking pipes, or cracked tiles.

You have two main opportunities to snag: before completion (during a pre-completion inspection, if the developer offers one) and after completion within the defects period — typically the first two years.

This guide covers what to look for, how to conduct a thorough inspection, when to hire a professional snagger, what your warranty actually covers, and what to do if the developer doesn't fix issues.

This is a companion to our main new build buying guide →.

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Why Snagging Matters

New builds are constructed quickly. Teams of different trades work through the property in sequence — groundworkers, bricklayers, roofers, plasterers, plumbers, electricians, decorators, tilers. Each trade's work affects the next. Coordination isn't always perfect. Corners sometimes get cut. Final finishing happens under time pressure.

The result is that a brand new house rarely ships perfectly. Some defects are cosmetic and minor. Others affect how the property functions. A small number are serious and would cost thousands to fix if the warranty didn't cover them.

The developer is obliged to fix defects within the warranty period, but only if you report them. This is where snagging comes in. Done properly, it can save you thousands in post-warranty repair costs and ensure the property you're paying hundreds of thousands for actually works as intended.


When to Snag

Pre-completion inspection (if offered)

Some developers offer a pre-completion inspection (sometimes called a "home demonstration" or "handover meeting") a few days or weeks before completion. This is a walk-through where you can identify issues before you formally take ownership.

The advantage: Getting issues fixed before you move in is much simpler than after. Trades are still on site, finishing crews can address things immediately, and you don't have to live around ongoing work.

The reality: Developer-led pre-completion inspections are often rushed, friendly-feeling rather than thorough, and the person showing you around may be trained to minimise issues rather than flag them. You need to be methodical.

What to ask for:

  • At least 90 minutes for the inspection
  • Time on your own in the property (not just being walked through by the site team)
  • A list of things to be completed that they're already aware of
  • Written confirmation of every issue you raise during the inspection

Post-completion snagging

Snagging done after you've moved in. This is the more common approach because many developers don't offer pre-completion inspections, and even when they do, you catch more issues once you're actually using the property.

Best timing: Within the first 2-4 weeks after moving in. You're still entitled to raise issues throughout the 2-year defects period, but earlier is almost always better:

  • Trades and site teams are still in the area
  • The developer is still focused on the site
  • Issues are easier to evidence (you can show the same thing hasn't been fixed)
  • Your memory of the property condition at completion is fresh

The 2-year defects period

Most new build warranties include a 2-year defects period during which the developer is responsible for fixing workmanship and materials defects. After that, only structural defects remain covered (typically by a 10-year structural warranty like NHBC Buildmark).

Raise issues within this 2-year window. Waiting longer means some items become your responsibility.


How to Conduct a Snag Inspection

What you'll need

  • A detailed checklist (download one or use the room-by-room section below)
  • A phone with camera (photograph every defect)
  • A notebook or voice recorder
  • A torch (for dark spaces, inside cupboards, in the loft)
  • A small spirit level (for checking floors, walls, surfaces)
  • A tape measure
  • A multi-socket tester (about £10 — plugs into each socket to verify wiring)
  • Marbles or a ball bearing (rolls to show floor slope)
  • A roll of masking tape (mark defects so they don't get missed when fixes happen)

The right approach

Go systematically, room by room. Don't jump around. Start at the top of the house (or bottom) and work through methodically.

Don't rush. A proper snag inspection of a 3-bed house takes 3-6 hours. Spread it over a couple of days if needed.

Photograph everything. Not just defects — take wide shots of each room too, so you have context if disputes arise later.

Be fair but thorough. Minor cosmetic issues (tiny paint chips, small blemishes) may not be worth raising. Anything that affects function, aesthetics meaningfully, or fails to meet the specification should be flagged.

Note the location precisely. "Scratch on kitchen worktop" is too vague. "20cm scratch on kitchen worktop, 30cm from the sink, running parallel to the edge" is documentable.


Room-by-Room Checklist

External

Approach and driveway:

  • Driveway level and properly laid, no pooling water
  • Kerbs and edging in place and straight
  • Landscaping complete per the sale specification
  • Path to door level and safe
  • External lighting working
  • Dustbin area / storage as specified
  • Garden fencing complete, secure, and level
  • Gate closes and latches properly
  • Any external taps working

Exterior walls and roof:

  • Brickwork mortar consistent, no missing joints
  • Pointing neat, not weathered
  • No cracks in external walls
  • Roof tiles level, none displaced or missing
  • Chimneys vertical, flashing properly sealed
  • Gutters straight and level, downpipes secure
  • Soffits and fascias clean, properly fitted
  • External paint consistent, no drips or missed areas

Doors and windows (external):

  • All windows open, close, and lock properly
  • Trickle vents working
  • All glass unmarked (scratches, blemishes)
  • Window seals intact
  • External doors open, close, and lock from both sides
  • Door frames square (use a level)
  • Weather seals on doors intact
  • Letterbox and door furniture secure

Inside — General

Walls and ceilings:

  • Paint consistent, no runs, drips, or missed areas
  • No cracks beyond very fine "settlement" lines (developers will argue these are normal)
  • No nail heads showing
  • Corners sharp and clean
  • Ceiling joints not visible
  • No water stains (could indicate a leak somewhere)

Floors:

  • Level (use a spirit level or roll a marble)
  • No squeaks or bounce
  • Carpets laid without bumps, fitted to edges
  • Laminate/LVT joints tight, no gaps
  • Tile grout clean and consistent
  • Expansion gaps appropriate

Skirting boards:

  • Tightly fitted to walls, no gaps
  • Joints clean and sealed
  • Consistent painting
  • Properly mitred at corners

Doors (internal):

  • Open and close smoothly
  • No rubbing against the frame
  • Handles operate properly
  • Hinges aligned
  • Lock/latch engages properly
  • Consistent gap around the door edge

Windows (internal sills and trim):

  • Sills level
  • Trim tight to walls
  • Window reveals plastered neatly
  • Consistent painting

Kitchen

Units and storage:

  • Cabinet doors open, close, and align properly
  • Hinges adjusted so gaps are consistent
  • Drawers open and close smoothly, don't stick
  • Cabinet bases and shelves unmarked
  • End panels fitted flush
  • Worktops unmarked
  • Joints in worktops sealed properly
  • Splashback sealed to worktop

Plumbing:

  • Both taps work, hot and cold
  • Mixer taps work through full range
  • No leaks under sink
  • Waste pipes connected and sealed
  • Washing machine plumbing if supplied
  • Dishwasher plumbing if supplied

Appliances (if included):

  • Oven operates, timer works
  • Hob all rings/burners work
  • Extractor operates on all settings
  • Lights in extractor work
  • Fridge/freezer operates at correct temperature (if included)
  • Any integrated appliances securely fitted

Electrical:

  • Sockets work (test each with a socket tester)
  • Under-cabinet lighting if specified
  • Cooker hood lights
  • Switch positions work correctly
  • Any data/TV points working

Bathrooms and En-suites

Fixtures:

  • Bath, basin, toilet, and shower tray unchipped and unmarked
  • Bath panel fitted properly, no gaps
  • Toilet seat secure and straight
  • Taps all work, hot and cold
  • Mixer taps work through full range
  • Shower works, temperature controls work
  • Shower screen fitted properly, no gaps

Tiling and sealant:

  • Tiles level and properly spaced
  • Grout consistent, no cracks
  • Sealant around bath, shower tray, basin is continuous and clean
  • No missed grouting
  • Corners neat

Ventilation and plumbing:

  • Extractor fan works (turns on with light, or separately)
  • No condensation signs
  • Toilet flushes properly and fills
  • No leaks around any fixture
  • Waste pipes secure

Electrical:

  • Shaver socket works
  • Bathroom lighting works
  • Pull cords operate easily

Bedrooms

  • Wardrobes fitted as specified
  • Wardrobe doors align and close properly
  • All sockets work
  • Light switches work
  • Ceiling light fittings secure
  • Curtain rails fitted (if specified)
  • Windows operate properly
  • Radiators warm up fully (test with heating on)
  • Radiator bleed valves accessible

Living spaces

  • All sockets work, check placement matches plans
  • TV points work (test if you can)
  • Light switches work, including any two-way switching
  • Fireplace fitted correctly if specified
  • Feature walls / decoration per specification
  • Storage under stairs accessible, lit if specified

Utility areas

  • Washing machine plumbing secure
  • Tumble dryer vent if supplied
  • Sink if supplied
  • Extractor working
  • Boiler accessible for servicing
  • Pipework labelled and lagged

Loft and roof space

  • Proper access hatch
  • Insulation to correct depth
  • Boarded area if specified
  • Light working if installed
  • No obvious damp, water ingress, or daylight showing through

Garage

  • Door operates (electric or manual) fully
  • Lights work
  • Sockets work
  • No water ingress
  • Walls and floor in good condition

Heating system

Check with the heating on for at least 30 minutes:

  • All radiators get fully hot
  • Thermostat responds
  • Boiler fires properly
  • Hot water comes through quickly
  • Any underfloor heating warms up
  • Smart controls work (if included)

Safety and compliance

  • Smoke alarms in correct positions, working
  • Carbon monoxide detector working (if required)
  • Mains-wired alarms linked properly
  • Electrical certificate available
  • Gas safety certificate available
  • EPC certificate matches specification

Professional Snagging Surveys

You can snag yourself or hire a professional. Both approaches are valid.

DIY snagging

Pros:

  • Free (other than your time)
  • You know what you care about
  • Creates a thorough self-owned list

Cons:

  • Time-consuming (3-6 hours typically)
  • You'll miss things a trained eye would catch
  • Your list carries less weight with the developer than a professional report

Professional snagging survey

A qualified snagger inspects the property and produces a detailed report. Typical cost £300-£600 depending on property size and provider.

What you get:

  • Written report listing every defect with photographs
  • Issues categorised by severity
  • Industry-standard terminology the developer can't easily dispute
  • Often an agreed response protocol with the developer

Pros:

  • Identifies defects you'd miss
  • Professional tools (thermal imaging, moisture meters, damp detection)
  • Formal report carries more weight in escalation
  • Faster — usually 2-4 hours on site
  • Often identifies issues worth multiples of the survey cost

Cons:

  • Cost
  • Finding a qualified snagger takes some research
  • Some developers restrict access for third-party surveys before completion

When to use a professional

Consider a professional if:

  • You're buying at the higher end of your budget (more expensive property, higher defect cost if missed)
  • You're not confident spotting issues yourself
  • You're buying off-plan with complex finishes
  • The developer has a poor reputation locally
  • You want formal documentation for the developer from day one

Finding a qualified snagger

Look for:

  • Membership of RPSA (Residential Property Surveyors Association) or similar
  • Construction or surveying background
  • Recent experience with your specific developer (some snaggers know each developer's common issues)
  • Clear report format — ask to see an example
  • Clear pricing

Check reviews on Trustpilot or Google. Ask for recommendations in local new build forums or Facebook groups.


What Warranties Actually Cover

The 2-year defects warranty

Most new build warranties include a 2-year period where the developer is responsible for fixing defects in workmanship and materials. Examples of what's covered:

  • Cracked tiles
  • Sticking doors and windows
  • Paint and decoration defects
  • Plumbing leaks
  • Electrical faults
  • Heating issues
  • Gaps in grouting
  • Poor finishing
  • Appliances (sometimes — check specifics)

What's not covered: Damage you've caused, normal wear and tear, issues caused by your own modifications, settlement cracks (hairline cracks as the property settles in its first couple of years).

The 10-year structural warranty

After the 2-year defects period, the property is usually covered by a 10-year structural warranty (often NHBC Buildmark, Premier Guarantee, or LABC Warranty). This covers:

  • Major structural defects
  • Foundations
  • Load-bearing walls
  • Roof structure
  • Damp-proofing failure
  • Structural movement

What's not covered at this stage:

  • Cosmetic defects
  • Workmanship issues (you'd need to prove structural cause)
  • Appliances
  • Plumbing fittings
  • Decoration

Provider differences

NHBC (National House-Building Council): The largest and most common warranty provider. Widely accepted by mortgage lenders. Comprehensive coverage but known for sometimes being difficult to claim against.

Premier Guarantee: Second-largest provider. Similar cover to NHBC.

LABC Warranty: Local Authority Building Control warranty. Generally well-regarded. Accepted by most lenders.

ICW (International Construction Warranties): Smaller provider. Generally accepted by lenders but check specifically.

Advantage, BLP, CRL, and others: Smaller providers. Some lenders may not accept these — check if you're remortgaging or selling within 10 years.

Consumer Code for Home Builders

Most major UK developers also sign up to the Consumer Code for Home Builders (CCHB), which sets standards for:

  • Pre-purchase information
  • Reservation procedures
  • Contract terms
  • Post-completion care
  • Complaint handling
  • Dispute resolution

If a developer breaches the Code, you can escalate via the Independent Dispute Resolution Scheme. This is a separate route from warranty claims — useful if the developer is refusing to engage.


Raising Issues With the Developer

The initial report

Most developers have a customer care team (sometimes called the "aftercare team") specifically for post-completion issues. Submit your snag list formally:

  • Email to the customer care address (not the site team directly)
  • Reference your property, plot number, and completion date
  • Attach photographs of every issue
  • Be factual and specific, not emotional
  • Request written acknowledgement and a response timeframe

What to include in each issue:

  • Clear description
  • Exact location (room, specific spot)
  • Photograph
  • Date first noticed
  • Impact (is it cosmetic, functional, safety-critical?)

The developer's response

What you should get:

  • Written acknowledgement within a few days
  • Initial response categorising each issue within 2-4 weeks
  • Schedule for fixes

Typical categorisation:

  • "Fix scheduled" — date set for the work
  • "Under investigation" — they need to look into it
  • "Not a defect" — they dispute it's a warranty issue
  • "Resolved" — already fixed (check this)

The fix appointments

Most developers batch fixes rather than sending trades for individual items:

  • One visit to fix multiple cosmetic issues
  • A separate visit for plumbing
  • A separate visit for electrical
  • Sometimes a final visit for outstanding items

Be prepared for multiple appointments over several weeks. Each typically needs you or someone else at home.

When things go wrong

Common problems:

  • Developer doesn't respond within reasonable time
  • Fixes don't actually fix the issue
  • Tradesperson doesn't arrive for scheduled appointment
  • Developer disputes legitimate defects

Escalation Routes

If the customer care team isn't responding or fixing issues properly:

Within the developer

Step 1: Customer care manager. If your issue isn't being handled, ask for the complaint to be escalated to the manager.

Step 2: Regional customer care. Larger developers have regional teams — ask for regional escalation.

Step 3: Head office formal complaint. Most developers have a formal complaints procedure. This should be a defined process with timeframes.

Step 4: Director-level correspondence. If formal complaints fail, write directly to a director. Contact details are in Companies House records.

Document everything — emails, call logs, photographs showing issues haven't been fixed, dates of missed appointments.

External routes

Consumer Code for Home Builders dispute resolution. If the developer is a CCHB member (check: the developer should display this) and has breached the Code, you can raise a dispute. Independent Dispute Resolution Scheme adjudicates. Decisions are binding on the developer.

Warranty provider (NHBC, Premier Guarantee, LABC). If the issue is covered by the warranty and the developer won't fix it, raise a claim with the warranty provider. They can arrange fixes and recover costs from the developer.

Small Claims Court. For smaller financial damages (up to £10,000 in England and Wales), you can take the developer to court. Costs are limited and the process is designed for non-lawyers.

Trading Standards. For misrepresentation, breach of consumer law, or serious issues.

The Homes Ombudsman. A newer scheme specifically for new build disputes in some areas. Check if it applies.

Media pressure. Local newspapers, Twitter/X, Facebook groups, and property forums can generate developer attention. This is often a last resort but sometimes effective.


Common Defects to Specifically Watch For

Some issues appear in new builds often enough that they deserve specific attention:

Poor tiling grouting. Inconsistent, cracked, or missing grout — especially around baths, showers, and kitchens.

Silicone sealant issues. Mouldy, patchy, or missing silicone around baths, basins, shower trays, and worktops.

Wall cracks. Some hairline "settlement" cracks are normal. Larger or growing cracks are not — especially diagonal cracks, cracks around doorways, or cracks in external walls.

Door and window alignment. Anything that sticks, rubs, or doesn't close properly needs fixing before the frame settles around the fault.

Paint and decoration. Drips, runs, missed areas, visible joint lines, inconsistent colour — common rush-finish issues.

Flooring issues. Uneven screeds, bouncy floors, squeaks, gaps in LVT, lifting edges on carpet.

Plumbing leaks. Under basins, around toilet bases, under bath panels, behind washing machines. Check after running water for 30+ minutes.

Heating problems. Radiators with cold spots, thermostat issues, boiler pressure loss. Test heating thoroughly.

Electrical issues. Sockets not wired correctly, dimmer switches flickering, outdoor lights not working.

Drainage issues. Slow-draining sinks, blocked toilets, manhole cover issues externally.

Garden and driveway finishing. Incomplete landscaping, poor-quality turf, settling of paving.

Window trickle vents. Often missed or not working correctly. Essential for ventilation.

Loft insulation. Check it's there, to the correct depth, and evenly distributed.


Frequently Asked Questions

How long do I have to report snags?

For defects and workmanship issues, the first 2 years after completion. For structural issues covered by the 10-year warranty, up to 10 years — though you should raise anything you notice as early as possible.

What if I move in before snagging?

That's normal — most snagging happens post-completion. Just do it within the first few weeks when everything is fresh.

Can the developer refuse to fix defects?

They can dispute whether something is a defect, but the warranty exists to hold them to their obligations. If you have evidence and a legitimate issue, escalation (customer care manager, warranty provider, Consumer Code) usually resolves it.

Should I accept minor issues to be neighbourly?

No. You've paid for a product with an implicit standard. Minor issues can become major if not fixed early, and accepting poor work sets the tone for how the developer treats you. Raise everything — it's up to them to decide what's not worth their time to fix.

What if defects appear after 2 years?

If they're structural, the 10-year warranty should cover them. If they're not structural, they're likely your responsibility. This is why early, thorough snagging is important.

Can I withhold completion if I've identified defects?

Usually no. Completion is a contractual commitment based on exchange. Minor issues can't legally prevent completion. Severe issues (property not habitable, major defects) might, but this is a complex legal area — take advice from your solicitor.

Is the builder's site manager the right person to tell?

Site managers manage construction, not post-completion. Always raise issues via the customer care / aftercare team. Copying the site manager is fine but shouldn't be your primary route.

What's the difference between a snag and a warranty claim?

Snags are defects in new work that the developer fixes directly within the first 2 years. Warranty claims are formal claims to the warranty provider — usually used when the developer won't fix something or when structural issues arise later.

Will snagging affect my mortgage?

No. The mortgage is secured against the property regardless of defects. Snagging is a separate process between you and the developer. Unless a defect affects the property's valuation (major structural issues), it won't affect your mortgage.

How thorough should I be?

Very. You're paying hundreds of thousands for this property. Spending 4-6 hours on a thorough snag — or £300-£600 on a professional survey — is a tiny proportion of that cost. Err on the side of over-reporting rather than under-reporting.

What if I find serious issues after I've accepted the property?

The 2-year defects warranty covers you regardless of whether you initially accepted the property. Raise serious issues as soon as you find them. Document when you noticed them and that you've raised them promptly.

Are snagging issues covered by my buildings insurance?

Usually no. Buildings insurance covers damage from covered events (fire, flood, theft). Construction defects are the developer's responsibility under the warranty, not an insurance matter.


Get Your Mortgage Right Before Worrying About Snags

Snagging is important but it's the final step of a long journey. Before you get there, make sure you've got the right mortgage from the right lender.

Our affordability tool shows you what 60+ UK lenders would offer on your new build — some lenders are more generous with new build purchases, others have specific new build products with extended offer periods critical for off-plan buyers.

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Author & Last Updated

Written by a CeMAP qualified mortgage advisor Last updated: April 2026

Last updated: April 2026

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